Cesena: Italy's Hidden Gem That Outshines Rome and Venice
Having visited Italy 21 times, I can confidently say that no other city compares to the little-known gem of Cesena. Eleanor Noyce, a seasoned traveler with deep ties to Italy, shares her insights in this exclusive feature, originally published on December 27, 2025, and updated on April 7, 2026. At 27 years old, she has spent every summer in Italy since childhood, immersed in the language, food, and culture thanks to her Italian stepmother.
While she has enjoyed iconic experiences like chatting in Roman bars, floating on Venetian gondolas, savoring Aperitivos in Bologna, and exploring Pompeii, Cesena stands out as the one city she returns to repeatedly. Tucked away in the northern region of Emilia-Romagna, Cesena is often overshadowed by its neighbor Bologna, the birthplace of bolognese sauce. However, Cesena offers a more authentic and charming Italian experience, whether in the scorching summer heat or the snowy winter depths.
The Culinary Heart of Emilia-Romagna
Cesena might not be as bustling or touristy as Bologna, with English rarely heard on its streets. Locals often give friendly, curious looks to visitors, wondering how they discovered this hidden city. The primary reason to visit Cesena is its unique food scene, distinct from other parts of Italy. Emilia-Romagna is renowned for its foodie culture, emphasizing simple dishes made with local resources from the nearby sea and hills.
Popular foods include mortadella, a type of ham mimicked as 'baloney' elsewhere, Parmesan cheese, and piadina, a flatbread best paired with squacquerone, a soft cheese with a unique texture. Wine enthusiasts should indulge in Sangiovese, a red wine so integral to the region that in the local Romagnol dialect, it is simply called 'e be,' meaning 'the drink.'
The region's history of innovation in cuisine is evident in dishes like Strozzapreti, a pasta whose name translates to 'priest stranglers.' Traditionally made from durum wheat, semolina flour, and water, this pasta reflects the working-class roots of the area, though modern recipes sometimes include egg whites and Parmesan. For an authentic taste, try Tre Papi, Osteria Michiletta, or La Stalla, a restaurant with a history as a horse stable.
Sweet Delights and Local Legends
Dessert lovers will find magic at Babbi Café, a local legend founded in 1952, famous for its chocolate spreads, wafers, and year-round ice cream. The pistachio spread is a must-try, and their chocolate-coated wafers pair perfectly with an espresso. Another sweet spot is Pasticceria Romagna, just outside the city center, known for traditional chocolate logs at Christmas and bombolone, a creamy custard doughnut ideal with a latte macchiato or espresso.
The City of Books and Rich History
Once you have satisfied your appetite, Cesena offers a rich historical tapestry. Referenced by Dante in 1321, the city is home to the Malatestian Library, the oldest public library in the world, designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2005. With 400,000 books, most available to the public, it has lost only six books over 600 years, surviving events like the Napoleonic Wars.
Catholicism deeply influences Italy's history, and Cesena proudly claims two popes: Pius VI and Pius VII. It is also known as the City of Three Popes, including Pope Benedict XIII, who served as a bishop there before his election in 1724. This blend of literary and religious heritage makes Cesena a culturally enriching destination.
How to Get to Cesena
The only drawback to Cesena is its lack of an airport. Visitors must travel via Bologna, Rimini, or Forlì. From London, the best option is a flight to Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport, taking about 2 hours and 20 minutes, with return fares as low as £30 on Ryanair from Stansted in May. British Airways offers flights from Heathrow for around £150.
During summer, flying to Federico Fellini Airport in Rimini is easier, with options from easyJet and Ryanair. Ryanair also revives its route from London Stansted to Forlì between June and October, with return flights available for £78. From Bologna, the train to Cesena takes just over an hour, while Rimini is a 19-minute train ride away, and Forlì is 27 minutes by car.
Cesena provides a peaceful escape from the crowded tourist hubs of Venice and Rome, offering an authentic slice of Italian life that keeps travelers coming back for more.
