One moment you're savouring sugar-dusted bean curd from a Sham Shui Po street stall, the next you're watching a businessman sprint past with milk tea. This is the captivating, layered reality of Hong Kong, a place where a £2,000 monthly rent coexists with the chance to pay a fisherman for a trip to a private beach.
Beyond the Financial Capital
While globally recognised as Asia's premier financial hub, trailing only New York and London, Hong Kong's soul is woven from much older threads. Its history, marked by colonial influences, creates a rich palimpsest of eras. The region's roots run as deep as the acacia trees planted by the British in the 1800s—a fitting metaphor for a place that both stabilises and surprises.
A week spent exploring its less-trodden paths reveals a destination brimming with the rare travel experiences many seek, far beyond the typical city break.
1. Hiking in a Subtropical Playground
Nestled in southern China's subtropical embrace, Hong Kong is cradled by lush, mountainous terrain. These green folds are home to macaques, kingfishers, waterfalls, and an extensive network of trails. Ranging from gentle walks to the formidable 'Four Trails' ultra challenge, there's a path for every level.
Most visitors see Victoria Peak as merely an observation deck, but the historic Peak Tram, built in 1888, is the gateway to a web of trails around Hong Kong Island's highest point. The city's roar quickly fades to a whisper here, replaced by stunning vistas of islands on turquoise water.
For coastal hikes, Sai Kung, known as Hong Kong's 'Great Outdoors', offers trails past volcanic rock formations and crystal-blue water. The undisputed showstopper is the Dragon's Back in Shek O Country Park. This undulating ridgeline walk, with sea on both sides and the city's skyline reduced to toy blocks in the distance, is both accessible and immensely rewarding.
2. Beaches Worlds Away from Central
The descent from Dragon's Back leads to Big Wave Bay, a popular surf spot with a laidback charm utterly divorced from Central's futuristic pace. This contrast is Hong Kong's magic: you can be in a global metropolis at breakfast and shin-deep in seawater by lunch.
The outlying islands amplify this serenity. Cheung Chau offers family-friendly beaches, while Lamma Island's forest-to-coast trails spill onto quiet bays. Even on the largest island, Lantau, you can find wild, expansive stretches of sand just a short journey from the urban core.
3. A Strong Spiritual Spine
Hong Kong possesses a profound spiritual dimension, with around 15% of the population practising Buddhism. The journey to the 34-metre tall Tian Tan Buddha (Big Buddha) on Lantau is an experience in itself, involving a vertigo-inducing ride on the Ngong Ping 360 cable car.
The climb to the serene bronze statue is a rhythmic, contemplative act. Nearby, the Po Lin Monastery and its Hall of 1000 Buddhas feels timeless, filled with the scent of incense and the sound of chanting monks.
Spirituality is woven into the urban fabric, from the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery in Sha Tin to the red, smoky temples squeezed between skyscrapers and the famed fortune tellers at Wong Tai Sin.
4. A Culinary Scene of Delicious Contrasts
Hong Kong's food scene is, in a word, indecently good. The spectrum runs from Michelin-starred fine dining at Roganic—Simon Rogan's celebrated import—to the vibrant, chaotic street food of Sham Shui Po.
Street eats are abundant, with dai pai dongs sizzling with wok hei, skewers, and silky tofu pudding. For a more refined experience, standout venues include the neon-lit modern Cantonese of Ho Lee Fook, Sha Tin 18 for its Peking duck carved tableside, and the Japanese-Korean fusion of Akira Back.
The cocktail scene is equally compelling, with sultry bars like Opposites, intimate Muis (home to a legendary dirty margarita), and stylish Peridot's leading the way.
5. Sleepy Towns Resisting Time
Amidst the breakneck speed, parts of Hong Kong move to a different, older rhythm. A trip to the Tai O fishing village, often called the 'Venice of Hong Kong', reveals stilt houses perched above narrow canals.
Here, life unfolds slowly: older ladies play mahjong in shop windows, and locals dry shrimp paste in the sun. Wandering its creaking boardwalks offers a glimpse of a Hong Kong that has gracefully resisted the relentless rush of modernity.
Beneath its global financial facade, Hong Kong conceals a layered, beautiful, and equally exciting hidden world. It's a chaotic, captivating palimpsest best explored the long way around.
Travel Notes: Cathay Pacific flies direct from London to Hong Kong, with returns from £549. Accommodation options include Dorsett Wan Chai (doubles from £113/night with breakfast) and Dorsett Kai Tak (doubles from £115/night with breakfast), both offering complimentary shuttle services.
