Why the polo shirt is having a moment from Thomas Tuchel to Andy Burnham
Polo shirt's moment: Tuchel to Burnham

England manager Thomas Tuchel wore a Marks & Spencer merino wool polo shirt during the World Cup group game against Croatia, sparking a surge in sales. The polo shirt, a perennial favourite, is experiencing a resurgence across celebrity, sport, and politics.

Polo shirts dominate recent events

Dua Lipa’s husband Callum Turner wore a £75 terrycloth polo by Octobre Editions during their extended wedding celebrations in Palermo. Pundits Gary Neville, Patrick Vieira, Roy Keane, and Ange Postecoglou also sported polos during World Cup coverage. Andy Burnham appeared after his Makerfield byelection win in a blue polo with jeans and Birkenstocks.

Sales and search trends

Marks & Spencer reported Tuchel’s polo generated £3.1m in sales since March, with 126,000 units sold. Pinterest searches for “polo shirt” are up 120% since December, according to Heather Clark, head of fashion at Pinterest. She notes the polo fits within “courtside and coastal prep,” blending racket sport influences with relaxed seaside dressing.

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Historical roots and cultural significance

The polo shirt originated in 19th-century India, adopted by British colonisers, and evolved through tennis stars René Lacoste and Fred Perry. Ralph Lauren made it central to his Polo line in the 1970s. Jason Jules, author of Black Ivy, highlights its adoption by youth and working-class cultures, including mod, rude boy, and skinhead styles, citing Miles Davis, John Coltrane, Damon Albarn, Amy Winehouse, and Tyler, the Creator as wearers.

Controversy and versatility

The shirt was controversially adopted by the Proud Boys, leading Fred Perry to discontinue the preferred version. Mitch Hughes, director of menswear at Marks & Spencer, says the polo “sits somewhere between the ease of a T-shirt and the polish of a shirt.” Jules adds, “The polo shirt is not about boasting… it symbolises a growing sense of confidence among men owning their style.”

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