Dermatologist's Guide to Effective Cleansing and Exfoliation for Healthy Skin
Dermatologist's Guide to Cleansing and Exfoliating Skin

The Essential Guide to Cleansing and Exfoliating Your Skin

Navigating the world of skincare can often feel overwhelming, with countless rules and conflicting advice circulating about cleansing and exfoliating. Many people find themselves confused about when to double cleanse, how to exfoliate effectively, or how often to wash their faces. Some individuals scrub aggressively, while others layer acids excessively, potentially damaging their skin barrier. A common question is whether daily exfoliation is beneficial, but experts caution against it. To cut through the noise, we consulted skincare expert Dr Zoya Diwan, in partnership with Olay, to break down the most effective methods for cleansing and exfoliating. This guide strips back to the basics, focusing on simple, effective steps that can lead to glowing skin without unnecessary complexity.

The Three Pillars of a Basic Skincare Routine

Dr Zoya Diwan emphasises that a solid skincare foundation rests on three key steps: cleanse, moisturise, and protect with SPF. These elements support the skin barrier, reduce inflammation, and allow the skin to function optimally. Despite the popularity of multi-step regimes, recent data from Olay reveals that nearly two-thirds of women over 35 admit to skipping or shortening their skincare routines. Dr Diwan notes that consistency is more important than complexity, advocating for a routine with effective products that are easy to follow. She recommends using a hydrating, gentle cleanser and a dual-action product like Olay Super Cream SPF 30, which combines moisturising and sun protection. When these basics are executed well, skin becomes more resilient, calmer, and better prepared to absorb active ingredients.

Why Exfoliation Matters and How to Do It Right

Exfoliation plays a crucial role in removing dead skin cells that accumulate on the skin's surface, thereby improving texture and brightness and enhancing the absorption of other skincare products. Dr Diwan explains that using the right chemical exfoliant for your skin type, such as AHAs, BHAs, or PHAs, supports healthy skin turnover without disrupting the barrier. While individual needs vary, most people should exfoliate only one to two times per week, as more frequent use can lead to irritation, especially as natural skin turnover slows with age. Gentle exfoliants with ingredients like lactic or glycolic acid (AHAs) promote brightness and texture, while salicylic acid (BHAs) is effective for unclogging pores and addressing breakouts. For those with sensitive skin, PHAs are a better option as they are less likely to cause irritation.

Top Exfoliator Recommendations

Here are some expert-approved exfoliators to consider:

  • Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Exfoliating Toner: Powered by 2% salicylic acid, this product penetrates deeply to tackle blackheads, congestion, and texture without stripping the skin. It is lightweight and particularly suitable for oily or breakout-prone skin, though it may not be ideal for ultra-sensitive types.
  • Avène Gentle Exfoliating Gel for Sensitive Skin: This gel uses soft exfoliating beads to smooth the skin without causing irritation, complemented by soothing thermal spring water to reduce redness. It is perfect for sensitive or reactive skin seeking a gentle glow.
  • Medicube Zero Pore Pads: These pads, popular on social media, are soaked in 4.5% AHA Lactic Acid and 0.45% BHA Salicylic Acid. They help minimise pore appearance, unclog dirt and excess oil, and create a healthier surface for subsequent skincare steps.

The Importance of Proper Cleansing

Cleansing should always precede exfoliation, as it removes surface dirt, oil, pollution, and sunscreen, allowing exfoliants to work more effectively. Dr Diwan highlights that a good cleanser cleans without stripping the skin, preserving the barrier. Olay research indicates that 81% of women over 35 find a simplified skincare routine more appealing, aligning with Dr Diwan's recommendation to keep cleansing gentle and non-stripping. Key ingredients to look for include glycerine, ceramides, and niacinamide, which support the skin barrier, regulate oil, and enhance firmness. Harsh surfactants or strong fragrances should be avoided, especially for sensitive or compromised skin.

Recommended Cleansers for Different Skin Types

Explore these cleanser options tailored to various needs:

  • Aveeno Face Calm And Restore Gentle Cleanser: This exfoliating cleanser is gentle enough for daily use, thanks to its non-abrasive liquid formula. It contains nourishing oat oil and hydrating PHA to renew the skin without causing damage.
  • Skin Rocks The Cream Cleanser: Ideal for a double cleanse routine, this product is formulated with amino acids and squalane to improve the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and boost hydration. Use it after micellar water for a deeper clean.
  • Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm: A cult favourite, this balm effectively removes makeup while nourishing and soothing the skin. It includes scented essential oils for a spa-like experience—simply warm it in your hands and massage over the face before wiping away.

Choosing the Right Cleanser for Your Skin

Dr Diwan advises that the best cleanser leaves skin feeling comfortable, not tight. Balms or oils are excellent for dry skin or heavy makeup removal, while milks or creams suit sensitive or barrier-impaired skin. Gel or foaming cleansers work well for oily or acne-prone skin, and micellar water can serve as a light cleanse but should ideally be rinsed off. After cleansing and exfoliating, applying a moisturiser is essential to support the skin barrier, reduce water loss, and improve comfort and resilience. Look for humectants like glycerin, barrier-supporting ingredients such as ceramides or niacinamide, and occlusives to lock in moisture. Products like Olay Super Cream SPF 30, which contains glycerin and niacinamide, offer comprehensive hydration and sun protection in one step, simplifying your routine while delivering effective results.