How to Make Perfect Arancini: A Step-by-Step Guide to Sicilian Rice Balls
How to Make Perfect Arancini: A Step-by-Step Guide

Felicity Cloake's arancini are a delightful treat, resembling little oranges in their golden, round form. These robust rice balls, said to have arrived in Sicily with Arab invaders in the 10th century, are now considered the local equivalent of a sandwich lunch, according to the late Antonio Carluccio.

Preparation and Cooking Time

Preparation takes 25 minutes, cooking 45 minutes, and the recipe makes 8 large balls.

Ingredients for the Risotto

  • 700ml chicken or vegetable stock
  • 100ml white wine (optional)
  • 250g short-grain rice (e.g., arborio)
  • ½ tsp salt, plus extra to season
  • 1 generous pinch saffron (optional)
  • 50g parmesan, grano padano, or vegetarian alternative, grated
  • Black pepper

Ingredients for the Arancini

  • 2 eggs plus 1 egg yolk
  • 100g mozzarella, drained and cut into chunks
  • Optional fillings: meat ragu, pesto, sautéed mushrooms, wilted greens
  • 170g plain flour
  • 250g fine dried breadcrumbs (preferably not panko)
  • Neutral oil, for frying
  • Flaky sea salt, to finish (optional)

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Note on Using Leftovers

Risotto is a northern Italian dish, so Sicilian arancini weren't designed with it in mind, but they are great for repurposing leftover risotto. This recipe is intended for 700g cooked rice; adjust fillings and coating according to what you have.

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2. Bring the Stock to a Boil

If cooking rice from scratch, put the stock and wine (or substitute 100ml extra stock) in a medium pan and bring to a boil. Chicken stock is recommended for its neutral savoriness, but use any stock that suits your fillings. A wobbly stock with plenty of gelatine adds richness.

3. Add the Rice and Season

Tip in the rice (arborio, carnaroli, sushi, or pudding rice work well) and season. Saffron, classic in Milanese risotto, gives a golden color, but use any herbs and spices you fancy.

4. Cook Until Rice Absorbs Stock

Bring the liquid back to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for about 20 minutes until the rice absorbs the stock and reaches a thick porridge consistency. Stir in the parmesan, season to taste, let cool, then chill in the fridge (spread on a tray to hasten cooling).

5. Fill and Shape the Rice Mix

Beat one egg with the egg yolk, then stir into the cooled cooked rice. Divide into eight balls (or more for bite-size), flatten each slightly, top with mozzarella and other fillings, then wrap and close the rice around them. Roll each ball smooth and round, then chill until cooking.

6. Make the Batter

Beat the remaining egg, mix with flour and enough water (about 175ml) to make a thick batter, and season. Put breadcrumbs in another bowl. Pour oil into a deep pan to no more than one-third full, heat to 175C (or until a breadcrumb sizzles on contact). Alternatively, use a deep-fat fryer.

7. Coat in Batter and Breadcrumbs

While oil heats, dip each rice ball in batter, then coat with breadcrumbs, heaping them on top. Shake off excess crumbs. Repeat with remaining arancini. Prepare a tray lined with paper towels near the hob.

8. Fry the Arancini

Fry in batches for about five minutes, turning as needed, until golden brown all over. Ensure oil returns to temperature between batches to avoid greasiness. If oil is too hot, outsides will burn before cheese melts.

9. Drain, Season, and Serve

Drain on the paper-lined tray and sprinkle with a little salt while warm. Serve hot or cold; if cold, cheese will be less melty, but they make a portable snack or lunch. For hot serving, they can be made in advance up to step 5.

Felicity Cloake's debut novel, The Underdog, is published by Fourth Estate at £16.99.

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