The babydoll dress is back in the spotlight, and so is the moral panic surrounding it. Pop stars like Olivia Rodrigo and Sabrina Carpenter have embraced this floaty, feminine aesthetic, but their choices have sparked intense online debate. Critics accuse them of infantilizing themselves and promoting a so-called 'Lolita' look, while defenders argue it is a legitimate fashion statement with deep historical roots.
Olivia Rodrigo's Babydoll Ensemble Ignites Controversy
In the music video for her recent single 'Drop Dead,' Olivia Rodrigo strolls through the Palace of Versailles in a pastel blue babydoll top from Chloé, paired with silky bloomers and white knee socks. The video, directed by Petra Collins, channels a hazy teenage aesthetic reminiscent of Sofia Coppola's 'Marie Antoinette.' However, instead of praise, the singer faced immediate backlash online. Critics accused her of invoking a 'Lolita' aesthetic and dressing like a 'sexy baby.'
Weeks later, Rodrigo wore a similar outfit on stage in Barcelona for Spotify's Billions Club Live concert: a pink and white floral puff-sleeve babydoll top with matching ruffled bloomers from the brand Génération78, offset by chunky black Dr. Marten boots. The look was described as equal parts soft and severe, but it once again drew accusations of promoting 'pedo core.'
Defenders Speak Out
Among those defending Rodrigo was Ertay Deger, co-founder of Génération78. He told the Guardian that 'the babydoll silhouette was never conceived as infantilising. For us, it sits within a long history of fashion references tied to rebellion, performance, romance, and girlhood culture.' He emphasized that the look is 'knowingly performative rather than regressive.'
Rodrigo herself has expressed her love for the style. In an interview with British Vogue, she said, 'My Pinterest is all babydoll dresses and '70s necklines. I want it all to feel fun and laid-back.' This sentiment, however, seemed lost on the online audience.
Other Stars Embracing the Babydoll Trend
Rodrigo is not alone in her fashion choices. Sabrina Carpenter has worn a sheer version of the babydoll dress, leaning towards a retro-lingerie aesthetic. Addison Rae posed in an understated white minidress on Instagram, and Alexa Chung, a gen Z indie-sleaze icon, has worn these dresses for years. The trend is clearly widespread among young female celebrities.
Historical Roots of the Babydoll Dress
Dr. Liza Betts, a researcher and senior lecturer in Cultural and Historical Studies at the London College of Fashion, explains that the babydoll dress can be traced back to the 1960s. It developed alongside the mini dress and represents a tension between societal expectations of propriety and the empowered sexual freedom emerging from second-wave feminism. 'The item is interesting because it was evidenced in both daywear and nightwear simultaneously,' she notes.
In the 1990s, the babydoll dress resurfaced in alternative culture, particularly through the 'kinderwhore' aesthetic worn by grunge icons like Courtney Love and Kat Bjelland. They used it to subvert and poke fun at docile femininity. Love recently defended Rodrigo, stating, 'If y'all are sexualising this, then maybe you're the problem … you can pry my babydoll dress from my cold dead hands.'
Why the Fuss?
Gen Z is often characterized as more puritanical than previous generations, and this wave of outrage may reflect a broader societal anxiety about child sexual exploitation. However, many argue that the backlash is a projection that serves to police young women's fashion rather than a genuine concern. As Olivia Rodrigo puts it, she wants her fashion to be 'fun and laid back.' Perhaps it is time to let it be just that.
Rodrigo, a self-proclaimed fan of 90s alternative music and fashion, may not be a direct descendant of the subversive punk ethos, but her polished take on the babydoll dress still manages to stir controversy. Even the most tame style choices can become fodder for debate in today's hyper-connected world.
