In a blind taste test of 13 parmesan and parmigiano reggiano cheeses from Australian supermarkets, a panel of experts and enthusiasts ranked the wedges based on aroma, texture, and taste. The test was held at Marani Deli in Sydney, with a panel including Tiffany Beer, chair of judges for the Sydney Royal Cheese and Dairy Produce Show; Penny Lawson, professional cheese judge and owner of Penny's Cheese Shop; Fabio Sercecchi, a sommelier and wine importer; Lucien Alperstein, a microbial ecologist; and Alex Grenouiller, owner of Marani Deli.
Best overall: Colla Parmigiano Reggiano
The top scorer was Colla Parmigiano Reggiano, priced at $16.99 for 200g ($8.50 per 100g), available at select grocers. It scored 8/10. The cheese is aged for 30 months, resulting in a complex, intense, and delicious flavor profile. The panel praised its ideal aging conditions, which allow enzymes and microbes to develop deep umami and savory notes.
Runner-up: Zanetti Parmigiano Reggiano
Zanetti Parmigiano Reggiano 30 Mesi, priced at $19 for 200g ($9.50 per 100g), also scored 8/10. The 30-month version was noticeably more savory and intense than the 24-month version, which scored 7.5/10. The older cheese was less fruity but more complex, justifying the extra $2.50 for half a point more in deliciousness.
Best value: Perfect Italiano Parmesan Traditional
Perfect Italiano Parmesan Traditional, priced at $8 for 200g ($4 per 100g), scored 7/10. This cheese is not a pure parmesan but a blend with cheddar, offering a buttery, savory flavor at a low price. The panel noted it can save hundreds of dollars annually compared to Italian imports while still satisfying pasta dishes.
Mid-range options
Thomas Dux Parmigiano Reggiano Over 12 Months ($14.50 for 250g, $5.80 per 100g) scored 6.5/10. It is a standard parmigiano reggiano but lacks the depth of longer-aged varieties. Mil Lel Parmesan ($11 for 250g, $4.40 per 100g) scored 6.5/10, with unusual fruity and gorgonzola-like aromas. Auricchio Parmigiano Reggiano ($13.99 for 200g, $7.00 per 100g) scored 6.5/10, described as unextraordinary but still a good basic parmesan.
Coles Parmigiano Reggiano ($12.70 for 250g, $5.08 per 100g) scored 6/10. It has a decent savory hit but fades quickly and leaves a metallic aftertaste. One reviewer described it as 'a little clammy, as if it's about to ask someone on a date.'
Lower-ranked cheeses
Westacre Dairy Parmesan Cheese Block from Aldi ($6.29 for 200g, $3.15 per 100g) scored 5/10. The Italian reviewer refused to comment, and professional judges deemed it 'milky and salty, pleasant but not parmesan.' Perfect Italiano Parmesan Extra Sharp ($8 for 200g, $4 per 100g) also scored 5/10, described as dense, moist, and salty with a bitter aftertaste, likened to a disappointing Tame Impala album. Symons Organic Dairy Co Organic Parmesan ($10.50 for 150g, $7 per 100g) scored 3/10, with one judge writing: 'Horrible. Do not use or eat.' It was described as bitter, wet, and smelling like toe jam or cow bile.
Key takeaways
High prices are a good indicator of quality for parmesan, but medium-high prices are not. Australian parmesan is fine but different from Italian versions. The best cheeses are wrapped in paper, as plastic packaging can affect the cheese's microbiology and aging. According to Nicholas Jordan, 'Cheese is alive. It has an active microbiology, and like us, it sweats in plastic and ages under too much light.'
